Cave City, Kentucky proved to be a great destination!  Quirky, and “unseasonably cold” (their words, not mine).  The 50-degree weather seemed pretty normal to me for October, but I can understand how it might seem strange if you’re expecting 80.  It rained almost the entire time we were there, but again this is not unusual for us and didn’t much interfere with cave touring (and gave us a good excuse to lay around).

Eli at Singing Hills

Eli at Singing Hills

The week started off pretty quietly as we spent most of our time at the campground.  Singing Hills Campground is about 2 miles from one of Mammoth Cave National Park’s entrances and is a quaint and quiet place to reside.  The campground owners were very friendly and accommodating and live on the property so it almost felt like being welcomed into their home.

Upon arrival, they provided us with a printout of their personal recommendations for groceries, gifts, laundromats, and sights, which was very helpful since many things were miles away.  They also had listed their campground rules, which were strict but tactful.  This was (after all) Amish country and a dry county to boot.

The campground was relatively small and had an old barn and a pond with fish and turtles poking about.  The property had farmland on each side so it was pleasantly quiet.  Eli enjoyed walking and beefing up on his wandering skills, and wanted to say hello to every camper as they arrived.

Eli and I ventured 15 miles to the Amish Bakery and Salvage Grocery.  I’d never been to a salvage grocery before, and it was great!  Items that had gotten a good beating in transport lined the shelves and were priced at a massive discount.  They didn’t have “everything,” but we scored some goods.  They also had a great bulk foods section with everything from flour and sugar to pie filling and lard.  Basically the way every grocery could be if we wanted to cut back on wasteful packaging and shamelessly manipulative advertising (okay, down from my soap box….).

Most days in the beginning of the week were spent puttering around the campground and chilling out.  Then Eli and I went hiking in the national park area.  Especially after my recent hiking adventures (see previous posts), I decided to keep it simple and wander the loops around the visitor center.

Eli didn’t sleep this time, and enjoyed reaching out and touching the trees (one of his unique interests).  I didn’t get lost per se, but I definitely ended up on an older trail that spit me out back at the parking lot.  It was a welcome short cut.

Susan in front of an old tree at Mammoth Cave National Park

Susan in front of an old tree at Mammoth Cave National Park

Then on Thursday morning we all went to the park to hike together.  Mornings are proving to be the best opportunity for family time during the week since evenings are a juggle of Dave working, dinner, play time, and Eli’s bedtime.  They all happen each night, but not always in a family-friendly order.

Eli & Dave Hiking in Mammoth Cave National Park

Eli & Dave Hiking in Mammoth Cave National Park

On Friday, Dave took Eli on the Domes and Dripstones cave tour (one of two tours that are accessible to little people under the age of 6) while I went on the Grand Avenue tour, a 4-hour and 4-mile hike through various cave areas and formations.

Many of our adventures might be like this: separate.  There are things Eli can’t do, and things we might want to do.  Anyways…

The Grand Avenue tour was great!  The parks “most challenging tour,” I was crossing my fingers that I would be up to the task.  The tour guide was knowledgable and funny (an imperative tour-guide combination).  A Kentucky local, he knew a great deal about the history of the park, and had some good stories to share about the cave’s visitors.

A few unlucky souls got lost when on tours and struggled to stay sane in the silent darkness.  The caves are so dark you can’t see your hand in front of your face, and 280 feet below the surface there is not a sound.  All the lost tourists were found, alive but unhappy.

Native Americans used to venture to the caves to gather minerals up to 10,000 years ago.  Some of their mummied remains are in the caves (not on the tour).

Over the four mile hike we passed through caverns with cielings up to 100 feet high, and others that brushed my head and shoulder.  We went up and down 700 steps, and went up some hills so steep that we had to hold onto the banister with both hands.

And of course all along the way were entrances to other caves, some explored some yet to be discovered.  The park claims to have passed through 405 miles of caves, and that number grows every year as they keep exploring.

The historical entrance at one point was the only known entrance to the cave, so tours back in the 1800s and early 1900s would often travel 9 hours or more to get to the caves we explored on my tour.  As the caves moved through various owners in the 20s, 30s, and 40s new entrances were created.  There are now over 30 known entrances to the caves.

The park itself is also quite interesting.  Until 1941 the caves changed many hands of ownership, and competing owners would vandalize one another’s caves, destroying millions of years of development.  Literally, it takes 200-300 years for one cubic inch of stalagmite to form.  So in the 30s the state tried to help preserve the area by making it a national park.  It took years to buy out all the land from farmers and residents.  There are still 80 cemeteries and a handful of active churches within the park limits.  Admission to the park is free so that locals can continue to visit their churches and loved ones.

Changing gears…. Sort of…

Eli exploring the Diamond Caverns gift shop

Eli exploring the Diamond Caverns gift shop

On Saturday Dave, Eli, and I went to Diamond Caves, a privately owned cave outside park limits a few miles out.  Literally under a hotel, the cave is very surreal.  They take you down a flight of stairs just like a basement, only instead there is this magical and winding cave.  Think Fragle Rock.  Just like that.  Not too big, not to small, and covered in unusual formations of rock and limestone.  One of their claims to fame is “Cave Bacon,” a thin, smooth, and long formation of various shades of brown.  In front of light, it looks like a giant strip of bacon.

Cave tour in Diamond Cavern

Cave tour in Diamond Cavern

Eli was less thrilled about this cave tour.  Hungry and tired, he wailed until he finally passed out about half-way through.  Sorry other cave tourists!!!

Until the 1980’s people even got married in the cave.  At that time though, the owners finally realized that letting naive and/or drunk wedding guests into your precious cave might not be a hot idea.

Eli the Engineer

Eli the Engineer

After our tour, we headed a bit south to Bowling Green to go to the L and N Historic Railpark and Train Museum.  Small but mighty, the museum is housed in the old station.  We toured 6 restored rail cars on site, including an engine car, a USPS car (my favorite), a dining car, 2 travel cars, and the presidential car.

The engine car was mostly empty, but Eli still enjoyed flipping all the switches and (of course) opening and closing the doors.

Eli hard at work in the mail car

Eli hard at work in the mail car

The mail car is one of two restored cars from that era.  Without stopping and going as fast as 50mph, they would hurl the delivered mail and strategically snag another bag hanging from a hook for them to load and sort.  Better not miss that (HEAVY) bag!

The dining car was less impressive until you reached the kitchen.  With close quarters and a rough ride, the kitchen was a treacherous place to be!

The sleep cars were also something to see, with foldaway beds that were a puzzle to even locate, foldaway sinks, and the ease/difficulty/privacy of toilet access differing among classes.  Much of the fixtures and fabrics were original.

And of course the presidential car was ridiculous, complete with a dining room, living room, 2 bedrooms, and a jack and jill bathroom with tub and shower.  (Although, I guess that’s pretty much what our RV is like (sans tub and avec satellite…. maybe we are ridiculous too!)

We stuffed ourselves silly with pizza for lunch at Lost River Pizza Co. (delicious!), and then relaxed for the evening back at the camper.

Overall, Kentucky was a complete success!  No drama, no big technical difficulties (except satellite stuff – I’ll let Dave post on that if he wants to), and a perfect mix of relaxation and fun.

Now we are getting our bearings in Nashville, Tennessee!  More on that to come!